Hooks
Getting to know hook terminology
will make it easier for you to choose a hook for a particular purpose.
The illustration to the right shows the various parts of the hook
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Every hook, freshwater or saltwater, fly or non-fly,
has six parts:
Eye The "loop" or connection point to the
fishing line. The eye is considered the front or forward end of a hook. Hook
eyes can be made to alignment (point) in different directions. For saltwater fly
fishing the straight eye alignment is the most common. The turned up and turned
down style is most commonly used for bait fishing as it helps to rig the hook
with a leader. Ringed eyes are the most common. The metal is bent in a uniform
loop and the end sits flush against the shank. Needle, looped and tapered are
some other types of hook eyes, but they tend to be used for specific
applications, like saltwater or dry flies.
Shank The shank is the length of the hook
from the eye to where the bend starts. Shanks come in short, medium or long
lengths. Shanks can either be think (light) or thick (heavy) depending on the
style.
Bend The section of the hook that bends
around.
Point This is the tapered end of the hook.
The point is the piece of the hook that actually grabs the fish. The shape of
the point will vary. Needle, knife edge, spear, or rolled ones are some
examples. The point also contains the Barb. Thats the spine of metal
pointing backwards at an angle from the point. The barb is designed to hold the
hook in place once it penetrates the fish's mouth. The larger the barb, the more
difficult it is for the fish (and likely yourself) to get the hook free. Many
catch and release anglers pinch barbs with pliers or file them down for easy
hook removal.
Gap The gap is the size of the bend in a
hook from the shank to its point. The gap is important to hooking fish. If
the size of the gap is too small the hook may not grab on the fish properly. If
the gap is too wide the fish might be able to get some leverage off the hook and
wrench itself free.
Throat This is the distance (length or
size) from the bend and the point of the hook.
Hook Measurements
Gape: The distance between the point and shank and is what
determines the size of the hook. Hooks range in sizes from 19/0 (largest) down
to 32 (smallest).
Bite/throat: The distance from the apex of the bend to its intersection with the
gape (the depth of the hook point).
Generous dimensions of these two elements ensure deeper penetration of the point
and better holding power of the fish.
The Shank (length): Can be longer or shorter than standard for
a given hook size. It is a numerical designated by 2X long or 2X short. The
higher the "x" number, the longer or shorter the hook. Without an "x"
designation is considered "standard."
Unfortunately, there is no uniform system of hook measurements. Visual
familiarity with the various hook patterns is the only workable gauge for the
serious angler.
Wire Size: Indicates the weight or gauge of the hook and
determines how the fly will sink or float. For flies that you want to float,
you can get hooks with lighter gauge wire designated by 1X fine or 1X light.
For flies that you want to sink, you have available heavier gauge wire
designated by 1X strong or 1X heavy. Again, the higher the "x" number, the
heavier or lighter the hook. Depending on the pattern and the desired "sink
rate," other weight can be added to the hook during construction of the pattern
in the form of bead-heads or lead wire.
Style: There are
many varied styles of hooks today. Hook manufacturers label
their hooks primarily based on the function, i.e., Dry Fly, Nymph, Scud,
Streamer, etc. Most of the differences are dependant on the Bend, Gape, Shank
and Weight of the hook. You should choose your hook based on the pattern
description or on the type and size of fly youre tying.
Barb or Barbless: If you happen to be fishing with barbs but
would rather not, the solution is simple -- just pinch the barbs down with a
pair of pliers either at the vise or on the stream. The best way to flatten a
well-designed hook is to work slowly, starting at the rear of the bar and
working your way forward. Most of the time you will not be able to get the barb
perfectly flat, but as long as you can get the point of the barb down to the
hook proper, you should be in good shape. You can also file the barb off. Fish
Barbless! It's better! Most anglers blindly use barbed hooks, and think fishing
with barbs is the only way to go. This couldn't be further from the truth. With
the proper technique, you shouldn't lose any more fish using barbless, as
opposed to barbed hooks. Fishing barbless has become essential to the health of
our fishing stock. Pressure on fish is growing intense as the popularity of fly
fishing increases. Its imperative that you use barbless hooks when practicing
catch-and-release or in designated areas (it's the law in many areas). As you
can imagine, barbless fishing is less likely to injure fish and will improve
their survival rate.
Barbless fishing has its advantages: 1) It enables you to release fish
quicker, with less injury to the fish. 2) You can un-snag yourself more
easily when you happen to be the "catch of the day!"
For additional information on hook anatomy, you can visit the following
websites:
http://www.fishsa.com/hooksan.php
http://www.mustad.no/abouthooks/index.php